Nike Air Max 90 Sizing, Fit, and Comfort Guide
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Nike knew it had a hit on its hands when Tinker Hatfield’s Air Max 1 first hit shelves in 1987. The Swoosh would trust Hatfield, who is also responsible for a majority of the Air Jordan sneakers MJ wore during his NBA career, to continue the Air Max family with the oft-forgotten Air Max II (aka the Air Max Light) and the Air Max 90.
While the AM90 was technically the third sneaker in the Air Max family, it’s really considered the second flagship model as the Air Max Light is more of a takedown version of the Air Max 1. During its original run in the 1990s, it was still known as the Air Max III, but once Nike began to retro the model in 2000, The Swoosh began to refer to the model as the Air Max 90.
The most popular and recognizable Air Max 90s colorway is the original Infrared, which uses a mixture of grey, black, and white with pops of infrared throughout. Tinker would apply these shades to the thermo-plastic panels on the lacing system, the heel tab, and portions of the midfoot and midsole, with these synthetic reinforcements becoming a defining feature of the model.
Of course, the model is also well-known as a canvas for collaborators. Over its 36-year history, the Air Max 90 has been given makeovers by the likes of Virgil Abloh’s Off-White, HUF, Patta, atmos, KAWS, size?, and many more.
If you’re in the market for a pair of Air Max 90s, let’s go over sizing for the sneaker. If you have any questions on how Air Max 90 fits, you’ll find all the answers in this Air Max 90 Sizing Guide.
Different Types of Air Max 90s
Nike has given the Air Max 90 a ton of remixes over the years, though there aren’t many that have become permanent staples of the release calendar like the OG version. Obviously, collaborators have tweaked the design of the sneaker countless times, like Off-White’s deconstructed look, but we’re sticking to redesigns that have been widely available.
The most common non-OG variant of the Air Max 90 today is the Air Max 90 Drift, which features a redesigned upper for a more durable sneaker. The general shape of the model remains, as does the famous foam midsole with an exposed Air unit in the heel, but the panels are constructed with different materials. Additional panels are also added to the toebox and heel overlay.
Image via Foot Asylum
In the early 2020s, Nike introduced the Air Max 90 Recraft. This version of the Air Max 90 had a shape closer to the original design that Tinker Hatfield conceived in 1989. Changes include making the sneaker sleeker, reducing the padding in the toebox, and slimming down the mudguard, but honestly, the best change came in the packaging. The box for the Air Max 90 Recraft was identical to the original narrow rectangular boxes Nike used in the ‘90s.
Other variants of the Air Max 90 include the Ultra, which follows in the footsteps of other “Ultra” silhouettes with a hollowed-out sole unit to reduce weight, thinner construction, and fused materials on the upper, and the Air Max 90 Flyknit, which uses Flyknit materials on the upper.
Are Air Max 90s Comfortable?
Image via Crep Protect
As with all retro sneakers, the Air Max 90 uses technology from decades past, which means it's outdated compared to today’s cushioning systems. That doesn’t mean the shoe is uncomfortable, just that there are options out there better for your feet. Still, the look of the Air Max 90 is why people wear the shoe, so the comfort tradeoff is worth it, and it’ll be serviceable for all-day work.
Do Air Max 90s Fit True to Size?
Image via Run Repeat
The Nike Air Max 90 fits true to size, so whatever shoe size you wear in most Nike sneakers will be perfect for the Air Max 90. Luckily, the shoe is widely available at almost all big box retailers, so you should be able to find a pair to try on in-store at a local JD Sports or Foot Locker. If you have a wide foot, true to size should still be ok, but going up a half size won’t hurt.
Air Max 90 Fit Tips and Recommendations
Even with the Air Max 90's origins as a performance runner, the shoe translates well to lifestyle wear, so you can wear the shoe with virtually all your outfits. And like many sneakers, you can create a loose lace look to give it even more of a relaxed vibe. In order to do this, you may want to size down a half size so you don’t have to lace the shoe as tight for a secure fit.
Air Max 90 Sizing Compared
Below, we’ve compared the Air Max 90 to a few different key Air Max models.
Air Max 1 vs. Air Max 90
The one that started the Air Max family, the Air Max 1, is only a few years separated from the Air Max 90, so the comfort they provide is comparable. In terms of sizing, both shoes will fit true to size, so whatever size you rock in the Air Max 1, you will be able to wear in the Air Max 90.
Air Max 95 vs. Air Max 90
Nike employed designer Sergio Lozano to create the Air Max 95, and his version of an Air Max took inspiration from human anatomy. The result is one of the most iconic Air Max sneakers, and in all honesty, a shoe more iconic than the Air Max 90. With extra cushioning via updated foam and more Air units, the Air Max 95 is more comfortable than the Air Max 90, but both will fit true to size.
Air Max 97 vs. Air Max 90
The bullet trains of Japan helped inform the fast-paced design language of the Air Max 97, a major leap compared to the Air Max 90. The 97 also introduced a full-length Air unit as opposed to the exposed Air unit in the heel that rests inside the Air Max 90. Some people prefer the foam-based cushioning of the Air Max 90, while others feel the Air Max 97 is a bit stiffer; it all comes down to personal preference. Just like the other shoes on this comparison list, the Air Max 97 fits true to size.
Air Max Plus vs. Air Max 90
A major upgrade to the Air Max line, the Air Max Plus introduced the world to Tuned Air, a more comfortable version of Air cushioning. Designer Sean McDowell paired this with an upper that is constructed from a breathable mesh and reinforced with TPU overlays that mimic the palm trees he saw on vacation in Florida. Both the Air Max Plus and Air Max 90 will fit true to size.
Sneakerhead from South Florida who turned his passion into a career. When not writing for Sole Retriever, I enjoy watching films and discovering music. Follow me on Letterboxd @nickvlah For tips, reviews, or any shoes in a size 13, email nick@soleretriever.com
