Top 25 Nike Air Max 90 Colorways

Born the Nike Air Max III (3) in 1990 from the mind of Tinker Hatfield, the sneaker that would be known as the Nike Air Max 90 did not earn that name until the year 2000 when the brand started reissuing original colorways. With all apologies to the Nike Air Max Light (aka Nike Air Max II), had the name Air Max 3 stuck around, we would be constantly referencing that it was a “third time’s a charm” situation as Air Max 90 has become one of Nike’s most consistent performers, led by the undeniable Infrared colorway.

Having recently celebrated its 35th anniversary with enough entries to rival the number of One Piece episodes, it was only right to honor the sneaker with our picks for the 25 greatest Air Max 90 sneakers of all-time.

The most shocking revelation when compiling the list of the greatest Nike Air Max 90 colorways is how nostalgia plays such a small role. While other sneaker lists turn to the OGs to carry the load, this list is littered with sneakers that came out during the early days of sneaker “culture” going from niche hobby to underground to mainstream, the height of the blog era, and the explosion of social media.

There are even entries within the past 12 months. It’s a reflection of the fan’s enduring support for the Air Max 90 and Nike’s continued efforts to put out new renditions of the sneaker. In an era when tastes in sneakers evolved from yearly to monthly to weekly, the Air Max 90 remains an unassailable anchor in the brand’s catalog.

25. Nike Air Max 90 Black Infrared (2010)

Like the Air Jordan 6 Infrared, Nike has returned to the classic Infrared colorway of the Air Max 90 and remixed the materials, the stylings, and the colorblocking to varying degrees of success. One of their better attempts at reimagining the classic was the Black Infrared pair from 2010 that acts as a sort of “away” colorway to the OG’s “home” vibes. The swap from white to black mesh on the toe box and heel works to great effect, and the use of white on the swoosh and laces provides a bright contrast to the shoe's road game look.

24. Nike Air Max 90 Hyperfuse Independence Day (2013)

The Hyperfuse Air Max 90 was a short-lived attempt at refreshing the Air Max 90 line with a newer synthetic material to take the place of the traditional leather, suede, and mesh mix we’ve grown accustomed to. While the Hyperfuse Air Max 90s were lighter than the original and streamlined the production process, it was never going to replace the nostalgia and comfort people had already established. Really, the only reason this sneaker made the list is because of a Kanye West phase where he wore all three colorways from the Independence Day pack throughout the summer of 2013, raising their profile and blowing resale prices to levels unheard of for a regular release.

23. Nike Air Max Lunar90 Moon Landing (2014)

In celebration of the 45th anniversary of Apollo 11’s absolutely real and totally not staged landing on the moon*, Nike released the Air Max 90 with a reflective 3M upper completely covered in a moon surface print with only the mismatched USA flag badges on the heel providing some contrast. To push the space theme even further, the Air Max 90 used Lunarlon cushioning while still maintaining the Air Max cushioning. While the release had some detractors for its very divisive look at the time, the sneaker is fondly remembered to this day and would likely get plenty of attention should a retro drop for the 60th (!!!) anniversary in 2029.

*While I do not speak for the rest of the Sole Retriever staff, let the record show that I believe the moon landing was real, Wilt Chamberlain scored 100 points, and Derrick White’s hairline is secretly a map to the Earth’s core where Godzilla and King Kong kick it.

22. Nike Air Max 90 Cork Anniversary (2015)

Nike’s use of cork on sneakers can sometimes feel more gimmicky and less purposeful, with some silhouettes losing practically everything that makes them special and instead just a walking block of cork. The Air Max 90 easily could have fallen into this category, but they were able to successfully implement the material onto the upper and maintain the shape of the overlays and mudguard. Reactions vary on whether the use of infrared badges blends in with the cork if another color would have served the project better, but the result is a sneaker that had people talking for sure.

21. Nike Air Max 90 Python (2003, 2019)

Leather panels on the Nike Air Max 90 are not an uncommon sight with the hundreds of releases we’ve seen through the years, but they were a little more novel in 2003, especially when you combine them with a black leather mudguard and a faux snakeskin pattern on the overlays. The result was a clean black and white pair of the Air Max 90 that became a cult classic until they received a retro in 2019 and a companion green python pair with a red unit air that made them more menacing than ever before.

20. Nike Air Max 90 Viotech 1.0 (2019)

In the summer of 2019, Nike dropped two pairs of the Air Max 90 in the style of the iconic Nike Dunk Viotech, a “2.0” colorway that features a similar palette to the original but in a different blocking to separate them from the release that more closely resembled the Dunk. It shouldn’t come as a surprise that people gravitated towards the release that mimicked the Viotech Dunk, but it’s not just because they copied the Dunk; you could make the argument that it’s better than the Dunk. Understandably, it’s a little blasphemous, but my bias tilts my view towards the Air Max 90 rather than the Dunk.

19. Patta x Nike Air Max 90 Waves (2025)

A follow-up to the highly popular Nike Air Max 1 Waves, Patta channeled the same energy onto the Air Max 90. While the inherent design of the Air Max 90 prevents the entire mudguard from being wavy like the Air Max 1, Patta had a special trick up their sleeve in the form of a lenticular branded badge in place of the standard Air Max. It’s unlikely these will replace the Air Max 1 as the definitive “Patta Waves” sneaker, but between the Particle Grey and Coconut Milk colorways and the more traditional Sapphire and Cyber pairs, there is something for every type of Air Max 90 fan.

18. Nike Air Max 90 Silver Surfer (2004)

If Nike were to release a Fantastic Four or Silver Surfer pack of sneakers today, you better believe there would be plenty of teasers and hype prior to release coming from both Nike and Marvel. But back in the Wild West days of the 90s and early 2000s, Nike was a little more cheeky with their pop culture references. In 2004, the brand released a Dunk and an Air Max 90 that would go on to be known as the Silver Surfers. While the sneakers do share some similarities to Galactus’ herald, it’s not blatantly obvious until you look at the insole that features the former Norrin Radd in distress. Nike has since brought back the Silver Surfer Dunk without the insole shoutout, but the Air Max 90 remains on ice as the sneaker community has dubbed a 2017 pair of Foamposite Pros a modern day Silver Surfer sneaker.

17. Nike Air Max 90 King of the Mountain (2008)

Air Max sneakers inspired by their cousins over at ACG are relatively common and vice versa. One of the better examples was a 2008 Air Max 90 that paid tribute to the Nike Air Mowabb, complete with faux snakeskin mudguard and a “King of the Mountain” callout on the heel badge instead of the usual Nike Air. While the color blocking is a little bit more tuned to the casual energy of the Air Max 90, the addition of a light pink hue on the overlay and midsole gives it an identity separate from the Mowabb influence. Nike would once again celebrate the Mowabb with the Air Max 90 Drift in 2024, this time leaning more into the homage compared to the 2008 pair. If only the midsole was speckled….

16. Nike Air Max 90 Premium Mixtape Side A and B (2019)

By 2019, the concept of mixtapes probably felt as foreign to a Gen-Z sneakerhead as VHS players and the Super NES. It’s a reminder that the design roster over at Nike more than likely consists of millennials and Gen-Xers to this day, which makes these two new colorways, dubbed a “mixtape” featuring a tracklist of the best Air Max 90s of all-time scrawled on the outsole, a product made for a very specific audience and age group.

15. HUF x Nike Air Max 90 Hufquake (2007)

Even though the Hufquake Air Max 90 is supposed to represent the 100th anniversary of the devastating San Francisco Earthquake like the similarly themed Air Max 1, the cracked concrete mudguard graphic paired with a white, grey, and military blue colorway possibly confused more than a handful of sneakerheads when they first saw it. Whether you were thinking of the Air Jordan 3 True Blue or the Air Jordan 4 Military Blue when you look at these Hufquake Air Max 90s, you can be forgiven for doing a double-take.

14. Nike Air Max 90 Crepe (2004)

Despite being part of a Crepe and Hemp pack that includes the Air Max 1 and the Air Burst, this Air Max 90 does not feature a crepe sole. Whether it was technical or aesthetic reasons we will never know, but it should not diminish the sophisticated look of the upper. The grey leather mudguard and suede overlays combined with the brown hemp panels on the toe box and heel blend in nicely together. Even the subtle blue text of Nike Air on the tongue provides a nice contrast that adds to the legend.

13. Dizzee Rascal x Nike Air Max 90 Tongue In Cheek (2009)

A legend of British rap and pioneer of grime music, Dizzee Rascal MBE was a fan of the Nike Air Max line. He famously wore the Air Max BW for the cover of his 2003 debut album Boy In The Corner, which would soon lead to a relationship with Nike where he was being gifted pairs of the trainer (UK slang for sneakers) and limited edition Air Max 180s to celebrate the launch of his albums. Dizzee’s star in the Air Max world would rise with the launch of his 2009 album Tongue In Cheek that was accompanied by an iconic Air Max 90 collaboration. The pink 3M tongue that features the album title pops in contrast to the sneaker’s sail-colored suede and mesh upper. Its off-white coloring gave it a vintage touch at a time when such a look wasn’t heavily in demand as it is today.

12. atmos x Nike Air Max 90 Duck Camo (2013, 2020, 2024)

While everybody knows about atmos’ Air Max 90 Duck Camo from 2013 as it’s constantly featured in best of lists, we want to take this time to honor a forgotten legend: atmos’ Air Max 90 Tiger Camo that was also released in 2013. Sneakerheads did not necessarily have to pick between the two sneakers, but because they released within the same time frame of late 2013, the majority of the attention and hype went to the Duck Camo. It’s not shocking by any means, because sneaker culture at the time was all about loud and colorful patterns. The Duck Camo pair using the OG Infrared bright badges was also a stark difference to the more subdued Tiger Camo with reflective 3M. While both sneakers have a storied reputation and obscene asking prices at resale, it’s clear the Duck Camo - which got retros but with flipped color blocking in 2020 and 2024 - became the clear winner in a fight that no one knew was an actual fight.

11. Nike Air Max 90 Escape (2002)

Inspired by Nike’s ACG division, the Escape Air Max 90 diverts from what we’ve come to know from the runner at the time and aims for something a little more elevated. Instead of limiting the silhouette to the track, the Air Max 90 Escape could be a pair you wear on a trail, hike, or the first place that came to mind when I saw the sneaker, the rodeo. The country vibes speak for themselves with a brown leather mudguard coupled with white leather panels. It’s cowboy boots for sneakerheads who would never wear cowboy boots.

10. size? x Nike Air Max 90 Clerks (Brighton) (2006)

In 2006, UK-based retailer size? was tasked by Nike with crafting a sneaker that revolved around the concept of a sneaker boutique and the role the staff plays in not only providing a service to customers, but in curating culture. The Clerks pack consisted of US stores Stussy, Undefeated, and Union, while size? got the nod in the UK. For the Air Max 90, the size? Clerks were inspired by Brighton, a seaside resort area south of London. More specifically, the colorful upper is a reference to the doors of beach huts on the promenade.

9. Nike Air Max 90 Denim Courir (2002)

A Colette exclusive in an era when the concept of a sneaker being exclusive to a boutique meant it was going to be next to impossible to find without the right connections, the Air Max 90 Denim featured the eponymous material draped all over the upper with a white leather Swoosh and badges. Interestingly, the badge that’s typically found on the mudguard is swapped out for a stitched-on variant.

8. KAWS x Nike Air Max 90 (2008)

Riding high on the success of his first Nike Air Force 1 collaboration in 2008, KAWS was given another opportunity to display his signature style on the Air Max 90 in the same year. Featuring both the Air Max 90 proper and the hybrid Air Max 90 Current that reimagined the original with an updated breathable mesh toebox and Nike Free tooling, the white and black monochromatic pairs came with volt hits and Kaws instantly recognizable “XX” stitching. Both sneakers are relatively simple in execution, but those little KAWS signature touches elevated them to classic status.

7. Staple x Nike Air Max 90 Navigation (2004)

One of Jeff Staple’s early projects that raised his profile was a 2004 collaboration with Nike as part of the Navigation Pack that highlighted sneaker hotspots New York, London, and Tokyo. Devoid of anything resembling the Pigeon style that would come to define the next 20 years of his career, Staple’s Air Max 90 Navigation was inspired by walks in the city. The upper consists of laser-etched graphics that represent an aerial view of the city, hiking-style lacing, and speckled midsoles that expand on the theme of travel.

6. Nike Air Max 90 Recraft (2020)

For obvious reasons, people were not exactly in a celebratory mood during the 30th anniversary of the Air Max 90, but Nike reminded us of the greatness of the sneaker with a Recrafted series of retros. Who could have known that bringing back the original cut and toe box shape of the sneaker would be so well-received by the community? Along with yet another retro of the original Infrared colorway, the Recrafted Air Max 90s dropped in a handful of new colorways like Volt, Total Orange, Turquoise, and others easily could have worked back in any era of the sneaker.

5. Off-White x Nike Air Max 90 The Ten (2017)

As part of “The Ten,” the late Virgil Abloh’s legendary collaboration with Nike is as impactful and enduring as any collection of sneakers in this century. While most of the attention was paid to the Air Jordan 1s and Nike Prestos at the time, the Air Max 90, in its unpolished and deconstructed form, was a perfect example of how Virgil was able to peel back the layers of the sneaker and show how many pieces were involved in making our modern classics. If nothing else, the exaggerated Swoosh that’s barely hanging on to the sneaker save for a few choice stitches shows us what could have been had Tinker Hatfield had taken a bolder approach to his design.

4. Patta x Nike Air Max 90 Homegrown (2006)

I feel like this nearly 20-year old YouTube video for Amsterdam-based Slate Magazine, which tied to the release of Patta’s first collaboration with Nike - an Air Max 90 with all sorts of allusions to Stephen A. Smith’s favorite word - does a better job of reminding us of the energy of 2006 and 2007 better than I ever could.

3. Nike Air Max 90 Warhawk (2007)

In 2016, Nike celebrated Air Max Day with a Vote Back program where people could vote for what iconic Air Max would receive a retro. For reasons that still boggle my mind to this day every time I think about it, the Air Max Lunar90 Moon Landing - a sneaker that just released two years prior - was in the top 3 of voting, trailing only the Air Max 90 Warhawk and eventual winner the atmos x Nike Air Max 1 Elephant. While atmos Elephants deserved its victory, there's a nonzero chance that the Warhawk could have been the pair that got a 2017 retro if people didn’t vote for sneakers that are still fresh in everybody's minds. The Warhawk, with its cool shark teeth graphics on the mudguard and upper that’s inspired by military themes, has yet to receive a retro.

2. DQM x Nike Air Max 90 Bacon (2004, 2021)

If opening a sneaker boutique to mimic the look and feel of a butcher shop feels like a very 2000s concept that might raise eyebrows, you would be right. But opening a sneaker boutique to mimic the look and feel of a butcher was a very 2000s concept that led Nike to offer Dave Ortiz and his shop, Dave’s Quality Meats, the opportunity to work on a Nike sneaker. The legend goes that Dave did not have a concept for the sneaker right up until the deadline when the bacon idea came to life. But once he had the theme locked up, everything came together. The Air Max 90 is and was a perfect everyday shoe that Dave could wear in the store. The sneaker was a success, but it took a while for the legend and the resale value to grow to where it is today. And the 2021 retro freed the sneaker from gatekeepers with shocking asking prices.

1. Nike Air Max 90 OG Infrared (1990, dozens of retros, reissues, reimaginings, remixes)

The following is a shortlist of variants of the Infrared Air Max 90 at your disposal…

(1) Nike Air Max 90 Infrared Retro

(2) Nike Air Max 90 Infrared Recraft

(3) Nike Air Max 90 Infrared with GORE-TEX

(4) Nike Air Max 90 Black Infrared

(5) Nike Air Max 90 Infrared Golf

(6) Nike Air Max 90 Infrared Hyperfuse

(7) Nike Air Max Lunar90 Infrared

(8) Nike Air Max 90 Infrared Flyknit

(9) Nike Air Max 90 Infrared Ultra Essential

(10) Nike Air Max 90 Infrared Reflective

(11) Nike Air Max 90 360 Infrared (don’t look this up)

(12) Nike Air Max 90 Infrared Sneakerboot (again, don’t look this up)

(13) Nike Air Max 90 Infrared Premium Carbon Fiber

(14) Nike Air Max 90 Infrared Current

Only a shortlist, but you get the idea. The Nike Air Max 90 is prolific; you can build an entire sneaker collection based around its many, many permutations. The popularity and versatility of the silhouette allow Nike to experiment in ways that would never be possible (or tolerated) on an Air Jordan or other entries in the Air Max catalog. And with the 35th anniversary mostly in the rear view and we march towards 40 years of the Air Max 90, it will be fun to see what new Infrared variants pop up in the meantime.

Juan Martinez

From video game journalism to veteran of the sneaker blog era to podcasting about well, everything, Juan is smiling through it all and can't believe this is his life. After recently getting into Formula 1, he now has hot takes about who the greatest driver of all time is. Email: juan@soleretriever.com